While we've discussed popular oak finishes before, we've never gotten specific as to the exact Minwax or other brand's specific stain color names. There's a reason for that... a finish is much more than just the stain color. Ideally, whomever is finishing your cabinets would look at a few of your inspiration photos and create several samples for you to approve (here is a deeper dive into how this very important process should work).
That said, we've seen time and time again cabinetmakers who ask their customers (you, the homeowner) to "give them a stain color" (a very important note here: if you're early-on in the process and a cabinetmaker you're considering does this, we'd really encourage you to find another... this either means that they don't understand the complexity of finishes, which is concerning, or, they don't mind burdening you with something they should be responsible for). If you're stuck in this situation and looking for the right shade (or DIYing a project), this blog's for you.
Here are the 4 best Minwax stain colors to use when trying to achieve the popular "white oak" tone. These color names and codes are intended for Minwax's Performance Tintable stain base, which can be custom-mixed at any Sherwin-Williams store.
(Design and photo credit: Amanda Teal Design)
1. Grey Elm, MW 401
2. Birchbark, MW 411
3. Whitewash, MW 423
4. Amber Pine, MW 433
Protective Topcoat
The purpose of stain is to simply change the color of the wood. Stain, by itself, offers no protection to dings, moisture, and other daily wear-and-tear. This is where a clear topcoat comes in. While I'm generally a fan of staying within the same finish system or manufacturer, Minwax's topcoats aren't the best option available. Their Polycrylic has several drawbacks: very long dry time, not very durable, and can push the color very yellow. This is why we're such big fans of General Finishes High Performance. This can be sprayed or brushed, won't change the color of the wood, and offers very good scratch, dent, and moisture resistance.
This is by no means the best clear topcoat available, but it is the best of both worlds: very durable and very easy to work with (specifically for homeowners attempting to DIY, or stuck dealing with low-skilled painters, or less-than-helpful cabinetmakers responsible for their new cabinets' finish).
(Photo design and credit: Rose Rock 918)
Sample, Sample, Sample
While the colors listed above are excellent starting points, the only way to find the perfect stain color is to have the person applying the final finish to sample, sample, sample (there is a lot of technique involved in staining... one person's sample will rarely look like another's, ever when the exact same wood and stain are used).
Staining Is More Than Just The Stain
If there is one thing we try to impart on this blog and in our Facebook group is nuance. There are very few one-size-fits-all answers in building, and that couldn't be more true when dealing with stained finishes. Wood type, wood cut (rift vs flat vs quarter), solid wood vs veneer, stain type (water vs oil), sanding technique, et al all play a major role in how the finish ultimately turns out. Unfortunately, once stain goes onto a piece of wood, especially veneer, that's usually a wrap.
This vanity was stained by a "professional" and, as you can tell, looks pretty bad. Blotchy, inconsistent tone between the center panels and frames, streaky, and on and on. We bring this up not to frighten or dissuade anyone, but rather to help educate that even though a stain color has been selected, the finisher still has all his or her work ahead. This is one of the main reasons Ask A Cabinetmaker exists: to prevent frustrating and expensive mistakes from happening in the first place.
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No matter your question or concern, we're here to help!